10.Awesome!

0709 Wen.

Camping on the altitude of 4000MH was a special experience. It was cold but I would never forget how numerous and bright stars were in the sky~

In the morning Dorzy drove us to the end of the road, a top point beside Tso Moriri, we could see the wide view of the lake!

Dorzy stacked up the flat stones and said it’s for good luck. In Taiwan we did that as a trail mark in the remote mountian area. From that moment, I did so for good luck on the mountain top ~

(The lovely geese family I found at Tso Moriri~ )

After we finished our Tso Moriri tour and went back to Miru’s office, Miru asked carefully how I was during the trip. I asked him, “Are you happy today?” in return. Miru seemed surprised and stuttered, he never thought I would ask him like that! “I’m not your enemy, OK? Don’t be afraid!”

After we paid the rest tour money, he asked how Tso Moriri was. Before that, he asked me how I felt the Lamayuru tour and Nubra Valley tour, I said “good” lightly. I think I was really mean to him at that time! I covered the real feeling about the tours. Let him think I was not satisfied with the tours. Actually I liked every tour! I like Ladakh! I don’t know why I pretended it… So I answered to him, “Tso Moriri is awesome！” Miru smiled~ My travel pals didn’t know the word. Finally Miru and I could communicate from that moment…

Miru asked if we noticed tourists were much more than before. I think it was the coming festival in Hemis. I didn’t understand why he didn’t recommend us to stay and join the festival. We might stay in Leh longer.

Then I asked if his guest house is full today. He said he left the rooms for us. I smiled and thought, “I was going to wait and see which room he left for me. If he was smart enough, he had better left 2nd floor room for me…”(Haha, I was spoiled.)

Arrived at guest house, the cook, Jeff led me the way to my room. Ha ha ha~ it was my favorite room in the guest house! My baggage was ready. I could stay in my room whole day long!

Miru! You were Excellent! You let your jeep’s rear-mirror fixed, changed my lunch to hot meal and remembered my favorite room… You completed whatever I requested. You are good! Next year if I came to Leh again, I would like you to arrange my tour, I mean it!

My stomach hadn’t recovered yet. I didn’t want to have dinner at that night. I stayed in the room, enjoyed my window view, said “Julley” to the neighbors, wrote my journals and read my book…

09.Tso Moriri

0708 Tue.

Woke up in the early morning, Miru knocked my door. I was not mad, just woke up with tired face, sat at the window and faced to the caged window… I didn’t sleep well. Miru should notice that, then he asked gently if we could leave our baggage in the guest house due to our jeep had to carry a lot of camping gears.

Whatever! I said yes to every request from that time. No more negotiation. “I’m here for vacation! I am tired of negotiation and bargain." I hated the name of ”Bargain Queen”!

On my way to Tso Moriri, soon I told myself to pay attention on the Tso Moriri tour, it must be another wonderful trip !

(On th way to Tso Moriri, we met the lovely couple~)

(This is not Tso Moriri, but it's been attractive to us a lot already!)

(Our hard working jeep stood there and waited for us handsomely~)

240km away from Leh, Tso Moriri absolutely is worth to visit! We not only appreciated the magnificent landscape, but also met some wild animals around Tso Moriri. It’s hard to believe we could see those animals on such high altitude, aroud 4000MH.
The whole surrounding was amazing to me! “Am I in the paradise?” I wish I could stay there longer… “Here I am, I could forget everything…Dear, I could stay here, just for you~”

08.Panamik Event

0707 Mon.

After leaving the relaxing Snow Leopard Guest House, I told to Dorzy, “Let’s go to Panamik hot spring!” He said nothing and drove to there. We didn’t notice whom he phoned. After we finished our Nubra Valley trip, back to Leh, we were informed our Nubra Valley itinerary didn’t include Panamik hot spring! That misunderstanding caused embarrassment between Miru and us... That’s the Panamik event.

(Snow Leopard Guest House)

This was the Panamik hot spring. Actually we were very disappointed about that. It’s behind our expectation. But we could still make fun by ourselves at the hot spring. Miru should not recommend this place to Taiwanese or Japanese, we thought.

(Panamik hot spring)

Our recognition of hot spring should be like the photo (one of the famous hot spring in Taiwan) below, at lease a small tank or cave where we can have hot bath is available. It’s a pity Indians didn’t develop and use the hot spring resource very well. It’s different cultural from Taiwan, I think.

(Taiwan hot spring)

Anyway, we kept enjoying the great scenery all the way back Leh and having fun together.

Return to the highest motoable road in the would, the weather was better then the previous day!

When we finished out tour and went back to Miru’s office, Miru said my bus ticket to Manali had some discount. Of cause I smiled for it. Just when we told him about all hot spring facilities were under construction in Panamik and we didn’t enjoy it, Miru asked us for extra 1400 INR!

He said tomorrow Tso Moriri tour will include Chumathang hot spring, not Nubra Valley tour. Jeff said, “But you recommended Panamik hot spring to us, said this is the popular one for local people...” Will also showed the pictures of Panamik hot spring to Miru and let him know how everything is under construction in Panamik now. But I think Miru only cared the more distances we went.

I tried to speak easily to convince Miru, we didn’t know Panamik hot spring’s not included in our Nubra Valley itinerary at the beginning and Dorzy should tell us at that time. I asked him to forget the extra money. But he became displeased. I turned to Jeff and said I couldn’t communicate with Miru any more. I stared to feel tired and upset…Jeff continued to communicate to Miru, and gave Miru the half money at last...

That was a very embarrassing situation after finishing our happy Nubra Valley tour… Then another upset thing happened to me later…

When we were back to Alimjan Guest House, Miru’s staff said Miru was not sure we were going to stay in the guest house again or not since we didn’t leave our baggage here. The 2nd floor rooms are full. We had to stay in the 1st floor room, the older, smaller and noisier room.

”Miru! Remember, before we headed to Nubra Valley, you asked me if we still wanna stay in your guest house after we’re back to Leh. I said OF CAUSE! I also said if we could have the room with good window view that would be better!”
Started to reflect if my English was not good enough!!! Michelle reminded me not to speak too complicated English to Indians. Is OF CAUSE complicated? Or maybe some other guests paid more money for the 2nd floor rooms and Miru decided to ignore us?

Miru’s father held my hands and said sorry to me. I surrendered! How could I let such kind senior say sorry to me? “No, no, no please don’t say sorry to me, it’s your son, he promised me...”, then I got in the first floor room and kept silent.

My stomach was still not well since I ate the cold food in the lunch box. I shut the room door, felt bad and tried to read Michelle’s book under the weak light… Didn’t wanna to talk any more…

07.Diskit, Ladakh

0706 Sun.

Woke up in the morning, I took the guest house room as my own room so soon. Looked at the window view, and had breakfast at the rooftop table were pretty good to me! I was ready to welcome my new day, new tour…

All Miru’s staffs were nice to us. I’m sorry that I couldn’t remember all their names. When I went down stairs, I took some pictures of guest house. That seemed to make Miru nervous. I guest he would worry what I am going to write about his guest house on the websites. Actually I am not sure whether his guest house was good or not because I had no time to see others. At least his guest house was much better than the one we stayed before in Leh. I felt like “home” somehow, especially when I met Miru’s father. He looked nice and kind and he made me think of my dear dad...

Started with our 2nd tour, 2-days Nubra Valley trip. Left Leh temperately, why I felt like leaving home…

As my travel pals mentioned before, I was really excited at the high altiude~

Went up the top Gompa at the road pass. It was cold there~

Then we went down the valley~
Arrived Diskit~ We got in the Diskit Gompa but no one was there, all the doors were locked.
Everybody was at the new temple having fun together. Were they celebrating Dalai Lama's birthday? I guested so... How wonderful their dancing, singing and smiling! I would never forget... Next time I visit Ladakh, I would like to stay here, Diskit!

06.Ladakh tour began with Lamayuru

0705 Sat.

We all thought our first guest house in Leh was not good, so we checked out next morning. Then unpleased thing happened, the guest house owner asked money for tea, which he TREATED us yesterday when we were discussing about our tours. I thought the tour he tried to arrange for us was too expensive. We didn’t make the deal and gave the business to another travel agent yesterday. Besides, I didn’t like he sat very, very near me when we were talking. He even whispered at my ear privately, and he would like to give me discount… Ya~ he had a good looking, but that couldn’t convince me.

As to our final tour deal, we made it done with a travel agent, “Ladakh Eco Adventure”. The whole process was quite interesting. I should say, everything happened to me in India just like a destiny!

My travel pals had no idea about finding a travel agent. So I chose the one by my first expression and feeling. “Ladakh Eco Advanture” is a good name for me. “I don’t want a big travel agent with the strong commercial layout”, I told to myself… The small office of travel agent was clear and bright and made me feel comfortable so I stepped in…

At the beginning, a gentle guy talked with us. Then the real boss (Miru) entered the office and sat at the desk quietly. We didn’t notice him actually. I think he was quite intelligent to observe our conversation quietly at first, in order to know who the key custom for this deal is. I communicated, negotiated, bargained and…then deal! I like to decide and do thing easily, directly and quickly.

We let Miru arrange our 5-day tour in Ladakh and we also accepted Miru’s guest house (Alimjan Guest House) and stayed 3 nights. Of cause I asked discount for our 3-night accommodation. My travel pals named me, ”Bargain Queen”. It had the reasons. We had been cheated in Delhi and Agra for many times. I was trained and used to bargain since then!

Miru was good at doing business. He treated us his mom’s home-made mint tea. It was really fresh! 1 day later we asked for one more pot of mint tea again for free. Miru chatted with us and listened to our suggestions and ideas about his agent and guest house business. He seemed a polite and honest man. Just when I thought everything in Ladakh would go smoothly and greatly. Miru was upset for the Panamik event 3 days later. I felt that, too…

This is our first tour, Lamayuru 1-day round trip. Our driver, Dorzy drove very well. I am used to get car sick on the steep and curved road. This time I felt very well and enjoyed my trip very much!

Moon land, as I saw it, we almost arrived at Lamayuru.

Lamayuru Gompa (10 century, 3390MH)

It's the oldest gompa in Ladakh and 125km away from Leh.

An old man turning the praying wheel, walked around the gompa and praying devoutly...

Landscape on the way from Lamayuru to Alchi~
Alchi Gompa (11 century) has original, delicate wood carving, statues and wall painting.

Likir Gomp (11 century)

05.Leh

It has been 6 days. Finally I turn on my TV, watch my favorite TV program, see a great movie, I saw it once before, “The Last Samurai”. It let me know the traditional Japanese people and cultural… How could an American, a Japanese enemy be changed, be involved into Japanese life and even fought for the Japanese at last?

Do I return to my normal life? I am not sure, all I know is I give myself one more week to recover myself since another typhoon is coming to Taiwan. I stay home and do nothing but keep finishing my India journals… （0725 Fri.）


0704 Fri.

Will’s cousin emailed the bad new about Srinagar to him. There were some outbreaks of violence in Srinagar due to their political conflict. We decided not to go although I felt it’s a pity... In the early morning we flew to Leh, Ladakh.

The 3500MH altitude was not a problem for me. I am used to hike in the over 3000MH mountain in Taiwan every year. It was my first time to visit such high altitude city. Actually I was delighted Leh as I arrived! People looked nice, life seemed easy and relaxing here. The best thing is the whole environment made me feel comfortable and refresh~


If there was no any tourist, that would be better to me! Kaori (the Japanese girl I met in Spiti) has been in Leh in the winter time. Now I’m thinking I should come to see Leh next January or February, in my next winter vacation… I really delight Leh after my 7-days staying there…

04.Love ~

0701 Tue.


Taji Mahal! I, a world heritage chaser, had longed for it for a long time. It’s out of my expect, frankly speaking, I was not moved by this great architecture at my first sight of it. “Did Todd say it right?” Many years ago, he said, one day I’ll be tired of travelling after I’ve seen everything! Despite that, I believe Love is precious to Indians! Michelle told me Indians take Love to be very important and marriage is the most important thing in their life!


In 1631, Mumtaz Mahal, the 2th wife of Emperor Shah Jahan was died when she gave birth of 14th child. That broke Emperor Shah Jaha’s heart and his hair turned into grey in one night. He made Taji Mahal be built from that year. After 22 years, as Taji Mahal was completed, he commanded over 100 architecture artists and craftsmen to be killed so that Taji Mahal became unique in the world! Fate can’t be predicted and controlled after all. Emperor Shah Jahanwas was sent to prison in Agra Fort by his son, Aurangzeb. Emperor Shah Jahan could only watch Taji Mahal far away through the window of Agra Fort until he died. The 2 marble coffins were not used but became the treasure architecture heritage and symbol of Love for posterity and afterworld.



I think, what attracted me is not only magnificent scenery, architecture art and world heritage… The people! Who made the history, create stories and different features of India! I have heard Indian music and saw Indian movies. Those present Indians’ romance and passion mainly. At the beginning, I felt it’s funny. Then I found it’s some how charming to Indians! I think the appearance of Indians looks traditional and conservative but actually they like that kind of music and movie so much. As to me, I bought some music CD and now I'm trying to search the Indian movies I saw in India via internet. Do I like it?

03.Trust?!

I made my car bump into a pillar! What’s going on with me? “Are you Wunmin’s granddaughter? Are you OK?”, the senior neighbor asked. The senior neighbor made me think of the old man in Spiti… My father said I am always careful when driving a car. He couldn’t figure out my behavior… I was speechless… I guest my heart left in India… People say Time will let everything return to normal. I’m waiting… (0722, Tue.)



0630 Mon.


On the first day in India, my travel pals and I were cheated by taxi diver 3 times money. Today we wanted to visit Humayun’s Tomb which was so-called the typical type of original Taji Mahal design. Anto (Tutu) drove us to Safdarjang’s Tomb. Checked Delhi city map, it was so strange that Safdarjang’s Tomb seems more far than Humayun’s Tomb! Will said maybe the driver didn’t know how to get to Humayun’s Tomb. Was it possible? Anyway, we should study the travel information well.



Michelle warned us, don’t trust the businessman, and don’t trust anyone and anything related to money. She predicted we would be cheated in Agra. I keep her warning in mind. So, from that time, I let myself get into self-defense, be doubtful of any conversation with businessmen, and bargain with every deal all the time. Except children, women, seniors, travel pals and foreign travel friends, I almost was cold to anyone!



Until on the 3-hours train to Agra, I met Dayal Sharan and his family, we talked a lot during the trip. The most interesting thing we talked is about the significance of their name. And I think they are just like their name! Dayal(merciful) Sharan(God’s Shelter) looked very kind. When a beggar and a gender-bender asked him for money, he gave them! In the same carriage, those beggars and gender-benders never asked us for money! Further more, Dayal’s wife gave her home made meals to us for dinner! I think we were under “the God’s Shelter!” Dayal Sharan and his family are my first Indian friends. I certainly believe most of Indians are good men!

02.Michelle & Julia

0629 Sun.


After landing at Delhi airport, stepping in Delhi, I felt nervous of the crowd and traffic even though I thought I was ready for anything in India... "This is India, anything would happen possibly!", I talked to myself. Ran to Michelle’s residence. It has been FIVE years we haven’t seen each other! We talked and talked, it seemed we were going to say all the words we haven’t said in our five years… Her boyfriend cooked for us, I cheered him with beer. Haha~

Before I left, Michelle gave a book which inspires her and solves all her problems. She wished I could read it during my coming India trip. I would like to thank Michelle! Indeed, the book really solved some problems and cheered me up when I met some problems and felt bad during my trip. Turning the bad feeling into good one and confirming my belief, I think I could learn and achieve the goal gradually…

Then I gave Michelle Julia’s memorial booklet which I have kept for Michelle for 2 years. I insisted to hand it to her personally. Michelle helped and supported me a lot when Julia, my dearest girlfriend was lost in Sinagar 2 years ago… “Now I’m desperate to see the heave Julia stays.” Joseph hates India due to Julia passed away there. I don’t so, I know it’s not fair to all the Indians. Instead, I like India very much after my India trip, I would like to visit more people and more places there.


I know I can't meet you in India, Julia! But you are always in my mind...

01.Fly home~

0720 Sun.


On the train to my home town, I don’t know why my heart was still occupied after flew Taiwan. Looked at my India pictures over and over through my camera screen… On one-hour train home, my family dialed my cell phone number in turn. Finally missed my family as I heard their voice flew from my cell phone…



It had been many years I couldn’t go to India for some reasons. This time the people I met, the things I saw, the events happened to me in India were all special and unique for me! My travel pals described me as ”The higher altitude was, the higher my spirit was!” I thought myself, “The mess I met, the excited I was!” “Am I crazy?” I asked myself.



My journey has no more focused on chasing scenic sites, hurrying to next destination, and trying to plan every tour. Suddenly I realized, in such country with multiple cultural and features, everything I experienced, no matter I felt nice or bad, that always reminds me how I was attracted and impressed then! I can’t help to praise: ”Incredible India!”